大約九點我們將搭車前往不舞的山中營地(私人秘境!),營地就在大小塔山之下,好好享受失去時間的早午餐時光~
阿里山風景區內的來吉位在海拔 700-1000 之間。這裡的生態有溪谷、森林、瀑布、聖山塔山、鄒族文化、高山美食(高麗菜、竹筍…)。知名的「HANA 廚房 – 南非姑娘的部落餐廳」也在來吉村。這裡也是山豬的故鄉、德恩亞納 Toe’uana 重生小村落(莫拉克風災後的永久屋)所在地。
塔山山系是鄒族人心中的聖山,是族人祖先靈魂的安息之處,族人們相信死後的魂會留在部落、身體靈則歸塔山,善良的人的靈魂都會存在大塔山、惡人則是在小塔山。行程中你也可能會聽到鄒族的「塔山之歌」,或是聽聞塔山的 愛情傳說 。
戶外早午餐
為何死後會回到塔山安息?這就必須提到鄒族人的起源。相傳鄒族族人是戰神的子女,是天神在玉山山頂搖落楓葉,這些楓葉掉落地面變成鄒族族人,因此死後必須回歸大地,回到塔山安息,這樣的傳說也一直在族人世代之中流傳。每年的小米收穫祭典 Homeyaya ,則是族人回來領取新的靈魂。更多鄒族介紹可以參考這裡。
傳說各氏族尾隨著山豬及動物腳印踏進了聖山,因為此區域就像動物天堂,進而變成各氏族重要獵場,後來因往返太遙遠,就定居於聖山的腳下。也就是現在美麗的來吉部落,豐饒土地、產物豐富、地靈人傑,族人親切所以簡稱「山豬部落」。
抵達營地後我們將享用不舞準備的早午餐,然後準備出發小健行囉!
私人秘境健行
健行將由梁兄帶隊,路線範圍都會在梁兄的私有地,是平緩的健行。但因為是未開發的秘境健行,路邊仍有許多咬人貓(別稱蕁麻、咬人蕁麻或刺草)、咬人狗(有毒的木蕁麻,碰到會疼痛灼熱)得特別留意,務必聽從梁兄的指示喔!
行程將跟著梁兄採集新鮮水果或野菜(依季節、氣候將有不同規劃),不健行的夥伴可以留在營地跟不舞學習製作蔥抓餅!喜歡健行的你可能會知道大小塔山,大塔山是阿里山山脈最高峰,也是鄒族人口中的聖山,海拔大約 2100 – 2663 公尺。更多介紹可以參考健行筆記喔!
德恩亞納 Toe’uana / 得恩亞納
許多人稱這裡為台版合掌村,但仔細一看,更像北歐風格:色彩繽紛的建築搭上鬱鬱的氣氛?被迷霧森林圍繞著、霧霧帶水氣的空氣、淡淡的北歐色系木屋、高高的衫林、與世隔絕… 甚至還有點像 Frozen 冰雪奇緣裡的小鎮(也是取材自北歐薩米文化、高架木屋)不覺得嗎?
其實這裡是莫拉克風災(八八風災)過後重建的永久屋,鄒族人將這裡稱為「得恩亞納部落 Toe’uana」。風災前的來吉部落因為遭受到土石流衝擊,整個村莊陷入泥沼之中。意思就是「一塊遠離河床平坦安全的聖地」,得恩是得到恩典、亞納是指很美的地方。
這裡共有 42 戶小木屋,每間小木屋都有自己的特色門牌,且房屋都採用高架基座設計,不破壞地形。而德恩亞納這裡也有一區森林步道、滿滿的竹林、杉林,也在我們今天的行程之中。這裡不是北歐、不是合掌村,這裡就是德恩亞納,是鄒族早期祖先的舊址。
私人音樂會
回到玻璃帳篷後,你可以在園區跟不舞的貓咪、公雞、狗狗認識與交流,接著跟著不舞 DIY 手作麵包為晚餐做準備!但記得不要偷吃零食喔!晚餐也將非常豐盛。
晚餐後會在玻璃屋餐廳聆聽他們的吉他、木鼓彈奏及鄒族歌謠哼唱的獨家音樂會… 想要更加了解鄒族文化也可以趁現在問問不舞與梁兄喔!
Today we leave Hamoana at 9am and head to Buwu’s private secret campsite in the forest. Where we’ll enjoy brunch under Tashan for a laid-back moment.
The Laiji tribe lies about 700-100 meters above sea level in the recreational area of Alishan National Forest. The ecological system includes the stream, the forest, the waterfall, the sacred mountain - Tashan, the culture of Tsou tribe, the local food (cabbage and thill bamboo...), the birthplace of the boar, and the reborn Toe'uana village (permanent home after Typhoon Morakot). The well-known restaurant, “Hana Village Kitchen” telling the love story of a young South African woman who met Tsou people is also located around the area.
Tashan Sacred mountain is where the Tsou tribe ancestors believe spirits are nestled. They believed the soul would stay in the village, while the body belonged to Tashan. The good spirits stay in Tashan, and the bad spirits stay in small Tashan.
You might hear the Song of Tashan or Tashan love legend by Buwu during the trip.。
Open air brunch
Why do they think spirits rest in Tashan when life is over? It refers to the root of the Tsou people. Legend has it that the Tsou tribe are Mars' children. God shakes the maple leaves on top of Mt. Yushan (Jade Mountain). These leaves drop onto the ground and become the Tsou people. Thus, the Tsou people should go back to the land and rest in Tashan. The legend was delivered from generation to generation. Homeyaya, an annual celebration of rice harvesting, is held around July to August by the Tsou tribe. The festival is for the Tsou people to head back home and gather new spirits for the following year.
Legend has it that the clans of all tribes followed the wild boars and animal footprints into the sacred mountain - A great habitat for animals, that’s when Tashan became an important hunting ground for all the clans. Over the years traveling back and forth, clans decided to settle at the foot of Tashan, which has now become the Tsou tribe.
The beautiful Laiji village, a fertile land with abundant produce, outstanding men and women, friendly people, we call them the “wild boar tribe”.
After arriving at the campsite, you’ll enjoy brunch prepared by Buwu and then we will take a short hike in the area.
Private secret place hiking
The hiking will be led by Liang, and the route will be on Liang’s private land. It is an easy hike, but as it is an undeveloped trail in a secret place, there are still many nettles (a kind of toxic plant, it will be hot and painful once touched), be aware and follow the instructions given by Liang, wear long sleeves and pants.
We will follow Liang into the forest where we look for edible plants (depending on the season and weather). Those who do not feel like hiking can stay at the campsite and learn how to make scallion pancakes with Buwu!
If you love hiking, you might know that the Tashan is the highest peak of Mountain Alishan, as well as the sacred mountain in the Tsou tribes. The altitudes are at about 2100-2663 metres.
Toe’uana
A lot of people call it the Taiwanese version of Gassho Village, but when you look closely, we think it looks more like a Nordic style: colourful buildings with a dark atmosphere. Surrounded by misty forests, foggy air, pastel colored wooden houses, tall forests, isolation... even a bit like a little town in Frozen (also taken from the Nordic Sami Culture, elevated wooden houses) isn’t it? That said, feel free to let your imagination run wild!
This place is actually a permanent house rebuilt after the Morakot Typhoon (the deadliest typhoons to impact Taiwan). The Tsou called the place "Toe' uana". The Typhoon wiped off the entire village.
Toe’uana means "a sacred place far from the bed of the river, flat and safe". "Toe' " means receiving grace, “Uana” means a beautiful place.
There are a total of 42 log cabins, each cabin has its own unique house number, and the homes are designed to be elevated and environmental friendly. In Toe'uana there is also a forest trail, full of bamboo and cedar trees, that’s also included in our tour. This is not Northern Europe, nor Gasshang Village. This is Toe'uana , the site of the first ancestors of the Tsou.
Private Concert
Returning back to the glass tent, you will have some free time with their cats, roosters, and dogs around the campsite. Then we will lean how to make fermented rice bread with Buwu for dinner. Again, please try not to eat too many snacks! It will also be a big meal.
After dinner, Buwu and Mr. Liang will share their beloved songs of Tsou tri After dinner, Buwu and Mr. Liang will share their beloved songs of Tsou tribe where they’ll tell stories through their music. If you want to know more about Tsou culture, please feel free to ask away, Buwu and Liang would be more than happy to share with you.